Rampaging bulls, melancholy chickens:
My First 36 Hours in Gondar
My First 36 Hours in Gondar
(Gondar, Ethiopia) –As we zoomed around the corner in
downtown Gondar in a tuk-tuk, a small three wheeled conveyance, we spotted a
very testy bull ambling down the street, daring anyone to cross his path. Unsuspecting
pedestrians who came within six feet of him were shown his horns in a most
threatening manner, and fortunately everyone leapt to safety, some angrily
calling after the bull in Amharic words that undoubtedly couldn’t be printed in
an Amharic newspaper. About a minute later, and at least a block behind, we finally spotted the bull’s handler
scampering after his wayward bovine. I can’t imagine him ever catching up with
the bull.
Riding with me in the tuk-tuk, and assuring me that
rampaging bulls aren’t a daily occurance in Gondar, was Tim, part of a
contingent of two Fulbrighters and their family members encamped here. They are
wonderful people who have already made me feel welcome. This is especially true
of 3-year old Reggie, who can’t wait to take a swim in my hotel pool.
I was invited over for dinner Friday night, and our hostess
planned to make chicken. Here in Gondar, if one wants chicken, there is only
one option—go to the arada, the central market, and buy a live chicken. This
was not an appetizing prospect for me, though I did not vocalize this since I
didn’t want to be seen as the soft city boy that I am. Yes, I am a chicken, and
no, the irony does not escape me.
We found our way to the chicken aisle of the arada with me
trailing as far behind as I could without arousing suspicion. As we showed an
interest to the first chicken vendor, we were swarmed by a dozen chicken
sellers, each showing off the relative merits of their birds. I let my friends
make the purchase, since I wouldn’t know a good chicken from one with a more
checkered past. (The arada, by the way, is amazing in a way that only an
African market can be.)
On the way home from the arada, we crammed three humans and
four live chickens in the back of a tuk-tuk. The chickens, which they didn’t
make me hold, thank God, were mostly quiet. However, occasionally, one of them
would let out a soulful, melancholy cluck that indicated that they might just
understand the fate that awaited them. On the way home, I was asked if I wanted
to come over and partake in the, ahem, festivities involving the chickens,
axes, and knives. I politely passed.
During the 10 minute trip, I tried my best to not look at
the chickens because if I made eye contact, I knew that I couldn’t eat them.
One did peck at my pants.
At dinner, I unenthusiastically nibbled on the expertly
prepared chicken, comforted somewhat in the fact that there was a chance I was
eating the "pecker." Should the chance arise, however, I would much more
enthusiastically partake in a plate of rampaging bull.
Steven Youngblood is
in Ethiopia for the Spring, 2018 semester as part of a special State Department
peace journalism fellowship. His (mis)adventures will be posted regularly in
this space.